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The John Lobb brand is a legendary manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the seventeenth century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory continues to uphold the traditional production process developed in the Victorian era.
Technology is used, but sparingly. For example, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from young French calf hides. Only about sixty percent is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines heritage designs with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah shoes, which are produced yearly in different shades and textures.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains a benchmark in the British footwear industry.
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