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John Lobb is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a center of footwear production in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory remains committed to the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.
Modern machines are present but secondary. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is limited, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The range combines timeless classics with contemporary tweaks. The City II Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen shoes gained elongated straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez model, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah trainers, which are released each season in different shades and textures.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in world-class shoemaking.
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